Drinks of Cyprus
The origin of this wine is not totally clear. It is definitely much older than its name, which dates back only to 1191, when Richard Coeur de Lion sold Cyprus to the Order of the Knights of the Temple. It is supposed that this wine was also served on his wedding with Queen Berengaria in the same year. The Templars settled in territories which they called ‘Commanderies’ The main one was near Limassol, where they established their headquarters. This was at Kolossi Castle, which you can still see in good state. So the name Commandaria was transferred to the much coveted wine produced in the area. Also today, only wines which have been produced from the grapes of this region, are allowed to be called Commandaria. The Templars and their successors, the Knights of St John, started to export Commandaria. It became a favourite in many European courts, and a lot of it went to England, where it was held in high esteem. But its history goes back a lot further. It was being made more than 2,000 years before the Templars re-named it. Previously it was called “Mana” the Greek word for “Mother”. The reason for this is very interesting. The wine was matured in giant earthenware jars known as ‘Pethari’. When the time came to pour it out, a certain amount was left in the bottom. When the new wine was added, the old wine helped it to mature. So the old became the mother of the new. It is very likely that the Commandaria you can buy today is the original Cypriot wine enjoyed by the Greek poet Homer and drunk by the Pharaohs of ancient Egypt. Today it is made by the same method. The grapes are spread out to dry in the sun, then pressed. The juice is collected and fermented in old, very large wooden barrels.
The wine pictured above comes from the “Keo” winery and is at least 8 years old, Commandaria St. John is a sweet wine with a powerful bouquet filled with dried fruits, spices and oak. It is luscious and full-bodied.
(From ‘A Mediterranean Sunset’)
